Jeffrey M. Pilcher, Hopped Up: How Travel, Trade, and Taste Made Beer a Global Commodity, Oxford: Oxford University Press, 2024.

01.

实践简介

A lively history of beer and brewing traditions as globally connected commodities created through borrowing and exchange from precapitalist times to the present.

Virtually every country has a bestselling or iconic national beer brand: from Budweiser in the United States and Corona in Mexico, to Tsingtao in China and Heineken in Holland. Yet, with the sole exception of Ireland's Guinness, every label represents the same style: light, crisp, clear, Pilsner lager. The global spread of lager can be told as a story of Western cultural imperialism: a European product travels through merchants, migrants, and imperialists to upend local patterns and transform faraway consumers' tastes. But this modern beer is just as much a product of globalization, invented and reinvented around the world. While distinctive craft beers such as London Porter, India Pale Ale, and Belgian sour ales have been revived by aficionados over the past half-century, they too have globalized through the same circuits of trade, migration, and knowledge that carried lager.

Here eminent food historian Jeffrey M. Pilcher narrates the brewing traditions and contemporary production of beer across Europe, North America, Africa, Asia, and Latin America--from the fermented beverages of precapitalist societies to the present. Over the centuries, he shows, the exchange of technological advances in brewing contributed to regional divergences and convergences in beer varieties, but always in tandem with other social and cultural developments. Unique local products, often homebrewed by women, were transformed into homogenous global commodities as giant brewing factories exported their beers using new refrigeration technology, railroads, and steamships. Industrial food processing helped to recast strong flavors as a source of potential contamination, turning lager, with its clean, fresh taste, into a symbol of hygiene and civilization. Local elites demonstrated their modernity and sophistication by opting for chilled lagers over traditional beverages. These beers became so standardized that most consumers could not tell the difference between them, leading to cutthroat competition that bankrupted countless firms. Over the past half-century, the global concentration of the brewing industry has spawned a reaction among those seeking to return brewing to the local, artisanal, and communitarian roots of the premodern alehouse, but microbrewers have often been driven by the same capitalist quest for profit and expansion.

Based on a wealth of multinational archives and industry publications, Hopped Up explores not only how humans have made beer but also how consumers--from nobility and clergy in the past to those raising a pint today--have used beer to make meaning in their lives.

本书纯真发挥了啤酒过甚酿造传统怎样通过前成本见识时间于今的模仿与交流，发展成为大家互联的商品。

确实每个国度齐有其畅销或标志性的国民啤酒品牌：从好意思国的百威到墨西哥的科罗娜，从中国的青岛啤酒到荷兰的喜力。干系词，除了爱尔兰的健力士，统统品牌齐代表着统一种格调：清淡、领路、透明的皮尔森拉格啤酒。 拉格啤酒的大家传播不错被态状为西方文化帝国见识的故事：一种欧洲家具通过商东谈主、侨民和帝国见识者的传播，颠覆了当地模式并更正了辽远陡然者的口味。但这种现代啤酒相同是大家化的产物，辞寰宇各地束缚立异与再立异。固然伦敦波特啤酒、印度浅色艾尔啤酒和比利时酸艾尔等具有特质的精酿啤酒在当年半个世纪里被啤酒青睐者再行回应，但它们也通过与拉格啤酒疏导的贸易、搬动和常识传播渠谈结束了大家化。

闻明食物史学家杰弗里·M·皮尔彻在本书中叙述了 欧洲、北好意思、非洲、亚洲和拉丁好意思洲的啤酒酿造传统和现代坐褥情况——从前成本见识社会的发酵饮料一直到现在。数个世纪以来，他展示了 酿造时候跳动的交流怎样促进了啤酒品种的地区性各异与趋同，但这历久与其他社会文化发展相互交汇。特有的方位家具，络续由女性在家庭中酿造，跟着大型啤酒厂诈欺新的制冷时候、铁路和汽船出口其家具，迟缓飘零为同质化的大家商品。工业食物加工助推了东谈主们将浓烈滋味视作潜在稠浊源的不雅念飘零，使极新爽口的拉格啤酒成为卫生与时髦的标志。当地精英阶级通过选拔冰镇拉格啤酒而非传统饮品来展示其现代性与简约试吃。这些啤酒变得如斯顺序化，以致于大多数陡然者无法永别它们之间的各异，导致热烈的竞争使无数企业停业。在当年半个世纪里，啤酒行业的大家荟萃化催生了一种响应， 一些东谈主试图将酿造业回首到前现代酒馆的方位性、工艺性和社群性根源，但微型酿酒商络续也被疏导的成本见识利润追乞降扩展祈望所运转。

基于多量跨国档案和行业出书物的辩论，《跃动的啤酒》不仅探讨了东谈主类怎样酿造啤酒，还探讨了陡然者——从当年的贵族和神职东谈主员到今天碰杯酣饮的东谈主们——怎样诈欺啤酒来为我方的糊口赋予道理。

02.

评述

Alcohol-and especially beer-has been at the center of human civilization from its very beginning. This entertaining, informative book uses beer as a powerful lens through which to view various historical trends over recent centuries, especially globalization and the backlash against it. Highly recommended.

—Edward Slingerland, Author of Drunk: How We Sipped, Danced, and Stumbled Our Way to Civilization

Jeffrey Pilcher takes readers on an encyclopedic beer crawl around the globe and across many centuries. Even if you think you 'know' beer, you will likely find a surprise on every page. A tour de force.

—Maureen Ogle, Author of Ambitious Brew: A History of American Beer

There are few products whose history can be traced hand-in-hand with that of civilization on this planet. Beer, then, is quite unique. And there are few authors who have been able to convincingly and authoritatively detail the evolution of beer and brewing from the ancient Fertile Crescent to the complexities of the brewing business in these times of dramatic change. Pilcher's book is a triumph.

—Charlie Bamforth, Senior Quality Advisor, Sierra Nevada Brewing Company and University of California, Davis

A much-needed, wide-ranging, and occasionally polemical counterpunch to received wisdom on everything from the rise of pale lager to the spread of craft beer, and the movements, social, economic, political, and technological, that drove developments in beer and brewing over the centuries. Hopped Up will be essential reading for anyone wanting to understand the contemporary global beer scene and how we arrived where we are today.

—Martyn Cornell, Author of Around the World in 80 Beers

Hopped Up is packed full of fascinating facts, from the origins of brewing to the rivalries that shaped British industrial beer brewing to the meaning behind the label 'Pilsner.' The stories in Hopped Up illustrate how, time and again, these kinds of interactions between brewers, regulators, and consumers have helped to create new beer cultures.

—Foreign Policy

乙醇——尤其是啤酒——从时髦来源就处于东谈主类时髦的中枢位置。这本既道理道理又富余启发性的著述以啤酒为苍劲的透镜，透视了近几个世纪的多样历史趋势，特地是大家化过甚反弹。强烈推选。

——爱德华·斯林格兰德，《醉了：咱们怎样啜饮、跳舞，蹒跚着走向时髦》作家

杰弗里·皮尔彻指导读者伸开了一场环球百科式的啤酒之旅，横跨数个世纪。即使你以为我方"了解"啤酒，也很可能在每一页齐能发现惊喜。这是一部极品。

——莫琳·奥格尔，《自利自为的酿造：好意思国啤酒史》作家

梗概与地球时髦史联袂同业的家具三三两两。啤酒因此独具特质。梗概令东谈主敬佩且巨擘地胪陈啤酒和酿造业从古代裕如眉月地区到现在巨变时期复杂啤酒营业演变的作家也历历。皮尔彻的著述是一次进军冲突。

——查理·班福想，内华达山脉啤酒公司高档质地参谋人，加州大学戴维斯分校

这是一部急需且视线众多的著述，它对从浅色拉格啤酒的兴起到精酿啤酒的传播，以及数世纪以来鼓励啤酒与酿造业发展的社会、经济、政事和时候指引等一切既有剖析建议了偶有争议的有劲反驳。《跃动的啤酒》关于任何想要意会现代大家啤酒口头过甚造成经过的东谈主来说齐是必读之作。

——马丁·科内尔，《环游寰宇品80种啤酒》作家

《跃动的啤酒》充满悠悠忘返的史实，从酿造的发祥到塑造英国工业啤酒酿造的竞争，再到"皮尔森"标签背后的含义。书中的故事展示了酿酒商、监管者和陡然者之间的这些互动怎样一次又一次地匡助创造新的啤酒文化。

——《应答策略》

03.

作家简介

Jeffrey M. Pilcher is Professor of History and Food Studies at the University of Toronto. He is the author and editor of numerous books, including Planet Taco: The Global History of Mexican Food (OUP 2012), The Oxford Handbook of Food History (OUP 2012), and Food in World History.

杰弗里·M·皮尔彻是多伦多大学历史学和食物辩论栽植。他著有和主编多部著述，包括《星球玉米饼：墨西哥食物的大家史》（牛津大学出书社，2012年）、《牛津食物史手册》（牛津大学出书社j9九游会官方，2012年）和《寰宇历史中的食物》。